Day 2 Wicklow Way: Glendalough to Oldbridge/Wicklow Way Lodge

 After a tough night of sleep in the hostel, we got up, gathered our belongings, had a breakfast of cereal, fruit, and toast that was not worth the 9 euros we paid, and headed out into the rain. Google was right about it being 100% chance of rain. That was ok, it was supposed to be a short day. 

The Rathdrum taxi driver from yesterday recommended we veer off the trail about 2km into Larragh for food as there was no food available at the Lodge or near the area. In my Wicklow Way book, it also suggested stopping at the Glendalough Cafe in Larragh for a bite. So, we wandered off the damp and muddy trail to the Cafe, where we grabbed a small lunch before returning to the trail. It was a cute little stop, and the people were very friendly. We sat outside with our packs as they had covered seating to protect us from the rain, plus we did not want to bring our wet stuff into the tiny store/cafe. 

The side trek to Larragh was interesting as we passed by homes, farms, schools, and churches. We passed some fun and friendly construction works with whom we exchanged rain humor. On the way back up to the trail, we retraced the route down, except to take a different trail we found on Gaia to meet up further along the trail. It was a fun adventure that saved us maybe a kilometer or 2, but put us on super wet and muddy trail until we met up with the Wicklow Way again. 

Once on the trail again, we traveled through woods, past farm fields, and saw our first lambs. It is lambing season in Ireland. So, we saw lots of baby sheep. It was ADORABLE!! The rain did not let up and even came in sideways occasionally, but it did not dampen our mood...much. We passed tree farms, slogged through mud, crossed wet grass fields, and finally found ourselves on a paved road, which we followed to our final destination...The Wicklow Way Lodge, a B&B situated right along the trail. 

Coming off the wet trails, onto the paved road, we passed by a home with blooming flowers and a gnome and fairy garden. I was ecstatic about finding such a fun thing, and took tons of photos, while my husband did a video scan of the garden. Maybe he caught fairies on film? If it wouldn't have been raining, I would have included one or more of my travel gnomes in this beautiful new home. With the rain, I didn't want to take off my pack and find them as everything got wet. Also, I was having trouble figuring out what 2 I would leave behind, as I could not leave just one by his/her self. Anyway, it put a pep in my step as we continued the final 2 miles of the day in the continued rain.

We arrived to the B&B about 13:00, and the owner had us strip off all our wet gear and muddy shoes on the deck. She showed us where to hang up our wet stuff, checked us in, offered to call a taxi to take us in for food, and then showed us to our room. We showered, relaxed, napped, and then ate the sandwiches we bought in Larragh, having decided we didn't want to take the lady up on the taxi ride into town for food. With food in our bellies, we returned to our room and proceeded to fall asleep.

Day 1 of the Wicklow Way; Wicklow Mountains, Ireland

 So, for my 50th birthday, I decided I wanted to go to Ireland. While in Ireland, I wanted to backpack some of their way marked trails. One of those being the Wicklow Way, Ireland's oldest long distance hiking trail. We planned to only do 4 days (41.3miles) on the trail from Glenmalure to Dublin vs the full 8 days to complete the entire 127km (78.9miles) trail from Dublin to Clonegal; we wanted to see other parts of Ireland during our 2 weeks in the country. The other part of this backpacking trek was that we were staying in hostels and B&Bs along the way. My husband was not up for carrying a tent and all the necessary camping gear across the Atlantic. I agreed, if that meant he would backpack with me. So, off we went.

We started the day with a continental breakfast at the Abbey Court Hostel in Dublin. From there, we wandered the grounds of Trinity College, grabbed a photo of an Oscar Wilde Statue, and headed south along the coast on a train bound for Rathdrum. In our research, we found that taking the train to Rathdrum would then allow us to catch a shuttle to the Wicklow Way near Glenmalure. Unfortunately, we were unable to reach the shuttle on the website, but found we could get a taxi service to the trail for cheaper. So, train tickets booked, and we were set.

The train left Dublin around 10:45am. Encircled with confusion, we showed our digital train tickets to the security person at the turnstile, and were allowed through. We tried to figure out the train as we stood on the platform, and was graciously helped by an employee. He told us to sit on the side closest to where we were entering. Unfortunately, the only seats available caused us to ride backwards to our destination. Still, we were able to see the ocean front and beautiful scenery as we made our way to Rathdrum, Ireland.

Upon arriving in Rathdrum, I attempted to use the Freenow app (Uber for Ireland) to get us a taxi, as we had planned before we left on this trip. What we learned was tough to swallow...they "do NOT provide service in this area." Hmmm...what now?

We followed the other people who had left the train at the same station, and found ourselves in the heart of Rathdrum wondering what next. As I was about to give up and start walking the 4-5km to Glenmalure (what else does a long distance backpacker do but resort to hitchhiking or walking?), my husband comes up with a number for a local taxi. He calls the number, and the person says she will be there in about 5 min to pick us up!? We are in the hills of Ireland in a small town, who would have thought they would have a taxi service?

The taxi arrives, we jump in, and she heads for Glenmalure. As she drives, she tells us how she is headed on holiday the next day and technically wasn't supposed to be working today. We thank her profusely for agreeing to take us. Being that we are both still tired and a little anxious to start hiking our 9 miles at 13:00, the ride is somewhat quiet.

She drops us off at the Glenmalure Lodge in Drumgoft, where the Wicklow Way crosses and continues up hill. We tip her for saving us, and decide to grab a quick lunch at the lodge. I wasn't crazy hungry, so I just had vegetable soup, while my husband had a full meal. We finished our food, and headed uphill on paved road before turning onto a dirt track leading further uphill. There are lots of people out day hiking the trail. I guess it has become popular to day hike sections of the way marked trails in Ireland. My husband and I trudge past these people carrying everything we brought with us for the trip. I'm not going to lie, I'm feeling a little badass.

The trail goes up through logging areas and forests. We are able to see where we started and then out over the country side. About a mile in, we pass a waterfall off in the distance before ducking into a forested section of the route. The day hikers have disappeared for now. The sun is out, but there is a chill in the air. So, we go between wearing our raincoats and not. Eventually, it starts to rain, and we cover our packs and tighten up our raincoats as it comes sideways. Ok. THIS is Ireland!

The rain didn't last long. As it passed over and the sun came out, we were treated to one of Ireland's best and brightest rainbows. I don't think I have ever seen one so bright. We could see the ends; one in the valley below and one in the trees ahead. I begged for fairies, gnomes, and leprechauns; none of which I saw. As we continued our descent along the gravel road, we decided it was an Irish blessing on our trip. My husband said that means we won't have anymore rain the rest of the time...stay tuned for that result.

Continuing down the hill into Glendalough, we found ourselves in a park/nature preserve area, where we were on wide trails. One of the sections took us past a beautiful waterfall, while the next section found us nearing one of the lakes. The Lakes gave us a hint that we were almost done for the day, which was good because my husband's feet were bothering him, and he was getting grumpy. 

My husband has been having plantar fasciitis issues for the past 1.5 years and recently developed a pain in his left knee. As this first day of backpacking was drawing to a close, he was feeling all of it. The feet causing the greatest grief for him. We trudged through the throngs of tourists visiting the lakes, the nature preserve, waterfalls, and monastic site to get to our hostel for the night. 

We got checked in to the hostel. The front desk person showed us to our 8 bed mixed dorm room with ensuite (bathroom in the room), and we said hi to the 1 other person in the room before settling in a little. My husband took some ibuprofen for his aches, and we rallied to walk down to the Glendalough Hotel for dinner. Google said the Casey Bar & Bistro was closed, but another restaurant on the hotel campus was open for dinner. As we made our way around the hotel, we found that the Bar & Bistro was indeed open, and how could we pass up a place named Casey's; even if it was spelled wrong. So, we grabbed dinner, and decided to visit the monastic site for sunset as the rain had stopped and the weather seemed perfect for it. Google said it was 100% chance of rain the next day, so it made sense to see the monastic site while it was not raining. 

The monastic site is the termination point for the St Kevin's Way, which is a 30km pilgrimage route from Hollywood, Ireland to the monastic site in Glendalough. According to Wikipedia; "The trail follows in the footsteps of Caoimhin Naofa who crossed the Wicklow Mountains and founded the monastery at Glendalough in the 6th century." So, the monastic site has St Kevin's Church, Glendalough Cathedral, Round Tower, a gateway, a priest house, and St Kevin's Cross. It is all surrounded by gravestones, and in my opinion is beautiful as the sun was setting. 

Done with our touring of the monastic site, we headed back to the hostel for a night of sleeping in a room with strangers...always an adventure.

To see the lead up to the backpacking portion of this trip as well as the touring portions between backpack adventures, please visit https://www.jaspkasetakeontheworld.blogspot.com. On my Travels with Jasp & Kase blog, I cover my non-foot traveled adventures (i.e., road trips, train trips, etc.)

vs the current blog covers all my backpacking/long distance hiking adventures. 

Final Day on Tri-County Challenge

    The feet hurt as soon as they touched the floor this morning. I hobbled to my clothes for the day and got ready. The more my feet moved, the better they felt, and the more hope I acquired for getting through the day. I was exhausted after not getting in until late, but excited for it to be my last day on the trail. 

    My husband dropped me off at the same spot he picked me up. For the last time, I was starting in the dark with headlamp ablaze. As I entered the woods, I thought about the conversation I had the night before with my father about hunting season and my potential for being shot. Luckily, it was only bow season and water fowl rifle season. I figured the bow hunters had to have precision aim, and I wasn't going to be near water fowl without being near a roadway as well. So, I felt pretty safe, but I was still in orange. 

    Again, my trail media was once again mixed between trails, boardwalks, roads, and highways. I enjoyed walking through the woods where I found lines attached to trees as part of tapping for maple syrup. It reminded me of collecting sap when I was younger to help my grandpa's sister's husband make syrup, and growing up with the homemade syrup. I had received a jar in July while staying at my mom's because we ran into the son, who continues to make small batches for friends and family. I miss homemade syrup.

    Anyway, I eventually made it to Middleville, MI, where I had made plans with my in-laws the night before to meet for lunch. I made it in before anyone else, found myself a pavilion with picnic tables, and proceeded to take off my socks and shoes before laying on the bench to rest a bit. Eventually, my family arrived, we got take out from a nearby location, and enjoyed our food under the pavilion. With everyone present, we wandered along the cement path about a mile before my husband and his dad returned to the car, while my mother-in-law (the Awesome MIL from the AT) continued on for about 6-7miles. 

    It is always fun hiking with MIL as she absorbs nature, and reminds me to take it all in. We didn't chat as much as we did on the AT, but I still enjoyed her company. It helped me make it through the middle part of the day, and keep going to the finish line. The men met up with us to whisk MIL away, but we planned on meeting up at the finish line and then meeting friends of mine at a brewery. 

    So, alone I took off to finish what 3 days prior I had taken on as a challenge. I wandered through backroads along swamps, reminding me of my childhood joy of walking through those swamps. For the last 4-5 miles, I had to force my brain not to think about the pain that was ever increasing in my feet. I had just completed 115 miles after all. The pain did cause me to look at my watch more often and made the end feel extra long. As I turned the last corner on the map before my end, I gave a little cheer. I was going to make it, and what an adventure it had been. 

    Nearing the next county, I found my husband and his parents navigating the terminus and trying to find a safe place to park the car while I completed my walk. My husband walked the last 100 steps or so, as his parents welcomed me in to the finish. I was ready to collapse, but happy to be done. What an accomplishment. 

    I got in the car after switching into my sandals, and we headed off to Thornapple Brewing Company for dinner. My friends, who used to grow hops in southern Michigan met us there. It was a great celebration of my accomplishment. 

    Once home at my in-laws' place, I pulled out my certificates and patches, and made sure to take a photo commemorating the accomplishment. My feet looked solid, but also had red blotches that made me a little concerned. They hurt, but that was purely from exhaustion after the 4 days and 120 miles. I rubbed them down and asked them to take care of me in a day or 2 as I had signed up for the 5k at Kalamazoo College's Homecoming weekend. They did carry me the distance, although not very fast as my leg muscles also had been overworked, and I forgot to ask them for extra support. 

    With this completed, I had no other plans for the trail this year. So, I packed away my stuff and readied myself for the winter months and trying to figure out what has been causing my nausea/vomiting and emotional variations, as I had not had either during the past few days nor while doing the triple crown of Michigan. Maybe anxiety has a part in both? Doing day hikes with a safe place to stay and lots of support made doing incredible things easier. This lead me to thinking maybe I need to adventure with the safety of an automobile vs camping out in the woods alone. So, I started looking at road trip adventures for 2022, especially after the trip home from Michigan where we were able to cross off 2-3 more states for my mom.  

Day 3 Tri-County Challenge

    Woke up a little earlier this morning to pack up the car before heading out on the trail. Over the past few days, I had not had to worry too much about hunting season and wearing orange as I walked along a lot of roadways. Today, I was going to be in many wooded areas that had potential for hunting. So, I made sure to wear orange. 

    My husband dropped me off at that picnic table, and I headed up the bald hill in the dark uncertain where exactly I was going. Today, I would cover Kalamazoo County in its entirety. Trail markers were sparse and the grass was covered in sparkly dew that reflected my headlamp making trail finding sketchy. As I reached the top of the hill, I heard in the distance the sound of a horn, which I eventually made out to be revelry at the nearby National Cemetery, or so I assumed. It was beautiful to stand there with my headlamp turned off and listen. 

    Once the morning was started right with revelry, I headed down the other side of the hill, reaching the edge of the woods as the sun was coming up, giving me just enough light to see where the trail disappeared into the dark woods. I pulled up my big girl panties and headed in, once again wondering who or what I would find in the darkness. 

    Over the past few days, I had been in communication with the Chief Noonday Chapter of the NCT, and had learned of an individual out on the trail raising money for suicide and attempting to do a county a day, more or less. As I wandered along during the day, I would periodically reach out to the head of the Chapter to find out where he and this gentleman would be and hopefully get to walk with him for a little bit. It ended up being the end of Kalamazoo County, where they met me, and I had the privilege of walking with this gentleman for about 6miles. He was not going to make his full hike of the counties due to having feet issues. This powered me to make sure I completed then. 

    At the end of Kalamazoo County, we met back up with the head of the Noonday chapter, and my walking companion left me. The chapter head was pretty certain I was going to make the entire challenge, so he gave me my completion patches and certificates at that time. I tucked them into my pack for safe keeping and continued on alone into Barry County. 

    It was a day of mixed media for walking, from trails to back country roads to 2 lane highway. There were lots of cranes along the way, and other birds to enjoy and worry whether they were going to poop on my head. They were very vocal and entertained me greatly. Besides live birds, there were lots of skeletons, once again making me wonder what had taken them. Eventually, I ended in a local park area, where there is a summer camp on one side with goats and cabins, abandoned at this time as it was no longer summer. It gave a nice erie completion to an erie start on the day.

    The night before, I had made plans with a college friend from the class below mine to meet up for a beer. He lives in the area of where I finished for the day, and brews his own beer. So, I finished off the day with enjoying his home brews and seeing his set up. It was really nice catching up. As he needed to get prepared for work the next day, and we still needed to drive 1.5 hours to my inlaws' house, we wrapped it up and headed out, hoping to see him at Kalamazoo College's homecoming that coming weekend.